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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,

Got a problem getting my Sp1 Started... had to put a new stator in as the old one was burnt out and also replaced the reg rec. Pulled it all down and replaced it as in the manual but now it wont go..

these are the steps i have done so far:

1 replaced battery
2 replaced reg rec
3 stator rewound and pick up checked for continuity
4 new plugs
5 fuel pump is working
6 have tried aero start
7. bike is turning over and starter relay is ok

The sprag clutch and gear fell out when i took the stator case when i cracked it but that has nothing to do with the timing/ignition?

Half way through cranking it the FI light comes on...fuelling issue? how can i test this?

So im at a loss ppl...

Any help greatly appreciated

Brett for Oz:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no PC

Al good found the problem ...put the pick up in up side down.. my bad...

have a great new year PPL
 

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Can you hear the fuel pump priming?

Have you checked for a spark?

Start with these, without one or the other it won't start.
 

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Have you tried removing your sparkplugs and grounding them, then checking if you have spark when test cranking?
Since your stator windings were fried, was your rectifier/regulator replaced because it too was damaged?
If so, check if you have spark at both plugs Your converter unit (CDI ignition box) may have also been damaged.
But prior to that, check ignition pulse generator (ignition timing sensor mounted on the alternator) per the service manual.
 

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I am having the very same problem with mine and I replaced the converter unit bought used from ebay bike was ok but only lasted for abt less than a hundred kilometres engine stopped and wont start again and I was told by mechanic that it was the converter unit again!!!! So please help. What is causing the converter unit to fail?
 

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Starting issue

i joined after buying my first RC51 last month. It has been a blast to ride! Last night I went into town to get fuel at a Mobil station where I always get my gas (93) and when I went to start it to leave it wouldn't crank over fully. I let it sit a few minutes and it tried but wouldn't so I called the wife and she came and jumped me. It fired right up and she left. When i hiot the street it died again. Had her come back and jumped it again, started and before I got the cables put away it died again. It had a fuel light on the dash before it died each time. Is this a sign of a reg/rectifier going or something else with the fual? I had just filled it and have not had any other problem with this bike prior. Any ideas?
 

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i joined after buying my first RC51 last month. It has been a blast to ride! Last night I went into town to get fuel at a Mobil station where I always get my gas (93) and when I went to start it to leave it wouldn't crank over fully. I let it sit a few minutes and it tried but wouldn't so I called the wife and she came and jumped me. It fired right up and she left. When i hiot the street it died again. Had her come back and jumped it again, started and before I got the cables put away it died again. It had a fuel light on the dash before it died each time. Is this a sign of a reg/rectifier going or something else with the fual? I had just filled it and have not had any other problem with this bike prior. Any ideas?
personally if its firing right back up then dying after refueling, I'd check the battery and check for water in the fuel... I'm leaning toward battery though.

Everyone else don't forget to check your fuses if you haven't done so already.
 

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eleman - my first guess is that your battery is toast.
You're getting ample current from the jumper battery, then when you unhook the cables, it dies. This is exactly what it would do for a battery that's simply to weak.

So then you have to ask, why is the battery weak? Old age? Not getting a sufficient charge?
Time to test the battery for voltage, and the charging system with a multimeter.
 

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Fixed

Well, I got it home the other night and put the battery on charge so I could check it today. Got home from work this morning and started it, fired right up. Put the multimeter on and it wasn't getting charge coming back to it. As I was taking the meter off, I noticed a plug unplugged right behind the R/R. Plugged it in and...tada! I have current coming back to the battery. I figure I must have unplugged it on accident when I was putting extra fuses and other stuff under the seat. I am pretty sure this took care of the problem and it was alot easier than when I had trouble with the R/R and stator on my VFR. Thanks for all the responses and advise!
:):)
 

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Also, make sure your idle is set properly (1300 RPM +/- 100).
If the idle is too low, the battery may not be getting sufficient charge to maintain its voltage level.
Even an idle of 1100 RPM can allow the battery to discharge to a point where the ECU will cease operating if stuck in traffic a long time.

This happened to me and my VFR800 when caught in traffic on the freeway after an accident.
I later checked the charging system and found that at 1100 RPM, the output was only 12.5 to 12.7 volts, which is considered a low battery.

Just adjusting the idle to 1300 RPM raised the output to 13.5 volts, which is enough to maintain the battery voltage (not charge the battery).
But at 1500 RPM, the output was 14.6-14.7 volts, which is enough to charge the battery.

A fully charged battery should be 13.0-13.5 volts.
A low battery is 12.0-12.5 volts.
A battery is effectively considered dead at 11.5 volts.

The charging system output should be around 14.5 to 15 volts, but not over 15 volts.
If over 15.5 volts, then the battery can be damaged or potentially explode.
 

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Great stuff there. ^

If you're testing how low the battery voltage drops while you're thumbing the start button, how low can the voltage drop before you know the battery is done?
Also, how much drop in voltage is considered normal for a healthy battery?
 
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