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Discussion Starter #1
Been doin a little research on the whole judder spring & seat for the SP1. It's been established that sp2 clutch discs & plates & judder spring/seat assembly will also fit into the sp1.

I just read a post from Waldo in June 2009 that he was going to do that conversion. Waldo, did you notice a difference, ie, disappearance of the occasional 'launching issue' some of us sp1 owners have experienced?

I'm close to needing a new clutch anyway, so I went to Barnett's site cause I was wondering about their applications for SP1 vs. SP2. My thought was to still add the judder stuff, but use Barnett discs and springs, not OEM. It looks like this will work just fine. I'll buy the judder spring, judder spring seat from an oem supplier. Then I'll order the Barnett Kit *303-35-20047 for the sp2. Here's their fitment chart http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/clutch_plates_springs.aspx?type=clutches_other&clutch_make=Honda&clutch_cc=1000

Anyone see any problems I might be overlooking?
 

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The SP1 clutch would often hook up pretty abruptly at times, so Honda incorporated the judder spring, seat, and associated inner friction plate on the SP2 to soften the engagement point to prevent shudder, or judder as they called it.

Physically, the clutch basket and hub are the same between SP1 and SP2.

The Barnett kit 303-35-20047 should include everything needed.
I'd call Barnett to just make sure so you have all that is needed to complete the job.
 

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So what is really the issue with the sp1 clutch? Is it the springs or the plates? Would an EBC. Clutch and sp2 springs sort this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You know, I bought the Barnett kit, with springs for SP1. Been running it for about 10,000 miles or so now.
I've had the clutch try to launch, or judder, only once or twice since then. It's still a bit of a surprise, but it's never got me into any situations or drama. More of a rare nuisance than anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's a perfect example of what some of us SP1 owners have experienced if our clutch system isn't in top notch maintenance.
Even after completely going thru my system, every thing from new internals in all cylinders, fluid flush, new clutch plates and springs, pazzo handle - I still get the occasional judder from my clutch. Usually only when I've been riding hard on older engine oil.


watch right at :37

 

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Judder is when the clutch is not quite fully engaged, but where some parts of the friction plate's material is beginning to grab the drive plates.
So it's a grab and release action. The closer to the full engagement point, the worse it may get.

Ever notice the springs in the hub of an automotive friction plate? Yep, judder springs.
Also, what many automotive clutch manufacturers do is incorporate a cushioning plate between the two friction faces.
This allows a form of deformation or "softness" to the friction plate to allow a more progressive engagement and less judder.

The judder spring design used on the SP2 and other bikes is more akin to the automotive cushioning plate in action by softening the friction plates engagement.
The rubber blocks used in cush drives more closely approximates the automotive judder spring in softening power transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now that I have some hard miles on my Barnett clutch, I'm definitely getting a lot more occurrences of judder under certain hot conditions. Even after a fresh oil change. It's easy enough to control since I'm downright used to it now, but annoying as hell!
My clutch pull doesn't feel as though it's getting softer, it feels as stiff as the day I changed over to the Barnett clutch. Except when I've been running hard. Then it definitely feels a little softer.
Maybe my rubber clutch line is partially at fault. It's located right by the radiator and may be picking up some heat making it even softer and more expandable?
 

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Now that I have some hard miles on my Barnett clutch, I'm definitely getting a lot more occurrences of judder under certain hot conditions. Even after a fresh oil change. It's easy enough to control since I'm downright used to it now, but annoying as hell!
My clutch pull doesn't feel as though it's getting softer, it feels as stiff as the day I changed over to the Barnett clutch. Except when I've been running hard. Then it definitely feels a little softer.
Maybe my rubber clutch line is partially at fault. It's located right by the radiator and may be picking up some heat making it even softer and more expandable?
Damn yesterday i saw a ss clutchline for $40.00 here or on zilla :rolleyes:
can't seem to find it now:(
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I think I saw it Wingnutt. Woohoot or something like that? He has it on Fireblades too for $30. (if it's the same one) He said it's a no name and brand new, sounds like he picked it up from someone else and never installed it. I passed on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No name - I can't stand unreliable Chinese shit. I want to know who made parts if I spend money on them.
Do you think it's worth a chance?
 

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No name - I can't stand unreliable Chinese shit. I want to know who made parts if I spend money on them.
Do you think it's worth a chance?
Well the price doesn't MEAN it's chinese shit it might be a goodrige or speigler not all have markings that's all I meant, but if it held fluid it would be better than the rubber shit you have on there now ... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Wingnutt, I would agree, I'd take the clutch line over the rear brake line anyday.
Just not gonna toss $ at a part that I don't know who made.
 

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Ive always removed them when installing a barnett kit. Honda has put these in many bikes not just the RC. I found out the hard way when first installing a barnett kit back in the day on my 87 CBR1000F if you dont remove them the clutch is too thick and actually hits the clutch cover. So on every honda I remove it. my 900RR's had it, 1100XX, RC51, dont remember if my 600F3 had it or not. But i remove them and never had issues. In fact I put 50K miles on the barnett kit on my 87 1000F.
 
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