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Discussion Starter #1
Tried to get on the rc today after the winter. Made it about 10 blocks with everything seeming fine and it started sputtering and cut off. Figured was low on gas but that didn't solve the issue. Fuel pump primes and bike turns over. Sometimes starts for a second or two but never stays running. Any idea on where to start looking? Has slip ons and PCIII installed.
 

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Make sure PCIII ground to battery ground. Battery voltage 12.8 or higher and doesn't drop below 11 volts when cranking. Battery cables tight & secure. You added fuel so that should eliminate old fuel problems. Eh,... I'm out of ideas till I get this shot of Don Julio down. Seen some weird problems with improperly grounded PCIIIs though. There's a few brainiacs on this forum so we will solve it!!
 

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Pull the small vac hose off the fpr and then turn the key on to prime the fuel pump. If your fpr is bad, it'll leak, drip, or squirt gas out of that nipple. So yeah, when the vac hose is hooked up, it's dripping all that unmetered gas into the throttlebody. The front one if you have SP1
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pull the small vac hose off the fpr and then turn the key on to prime the fuel pump. If your fpr is bad, it'll leak, drip, or squirt gas out of that nipple. So yeah, when the vac hose is hooked up, it's dripping all that unmetered gas into the throttlebody. The front one if you have SP1
Ok thanks, will definitely try that after work. Worst case I get an excuse to clean throttle bodies.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Went through whole fuel system and checked it out today. Leaning towards a kink in one of the coils as a partial cause. Glad I had another set laying around. Checking that tomorrow since lost daylight.
 

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^ So, just to be clear, the FPR tested OK (as it is a very common failure component on Honda bikes in general) ? :confused:
 

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Yeah. After tearing everything down to injectors to test. Everything seemed to run fine. Got about 10 blocks again till it sounded like one cylander. The sputtered and died. Thinking I accidently kinked a spark plug line under the tank. Swapping coils tomorrow now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update. Tryed bypassing PCIII to same problems. Bought compression test kit, new plugs and I will be reworking fuel cutoff and fuel pump relays as well as ordering new relays. Will probably need to just keep throwing money at it till it decides I am broke enough.
 

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How old is your battery
Have you tested your stator's AC output (both with a just fired up and a well heated up engine)
Have you tested the voltage regulator's DC output
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Battery 6 months old and tested at 12.8 volts. Rest haven't checked yet. But not sure how a recharge system would prevent initial starting.
 

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Been around Honda's a wee while now, owned a VFR for 19+ years. RR's a common "theme"...
Prior to replacing parts, I'd "measure twice, spend $ once"...

But it can be ANYTHING......
My LeMans acted weird on and off, only to find (at the end, while considering torching the bike) that the ignition lock barrel was rotted through...

Good luck on hunting down and shooting this gremlin!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Testing stator today. Ohms read consistent at .06 but got 0 on all voltage readings while idling. Anything that this could be aside from just a toasted stator?
 

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Stupid question (maybe) but you are checking for AC volts from the alternator phase wires ? it'd be unusual, but not impossible, for all three phases to show zero volts :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Stupid question (maybe) but you are checking for AC volts from the alternator phase wires ? it'd be unusual, but not impossible, for all three phases to show zero volts :)
Oh wow, now I feel dumb. AC voltage numbers looked right. I still have no idea what was originally wrong tho but about to go out for a ride and see if anything feels bad. May have just been bad gas as I've changed the gas in the tank like 10 times now.
 

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Usual tell tale way of assessing if you may have issues if the bike hasnt been run for some time, if you dont drain the tank etc, is that the fuel pump whine will be much more of a shrill/shriek noise rather than a whir, as the fuel tends to varnish and gum up the pump and other parts of the injection system and it takes more effort than usual, to pump the fuel through
 
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