Check your plugs first they might look okay, like mine . My bike was stalling at idle and had lack of power. Also check www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp You get free manuals online, just takes a while to download due to large file size. Good luck.
stalling/chuging issue with my 03
hey this is my first post on this forum and hopefully u guys can help me out i recently brought my bike the the dealer because when i start comeing off a stop sign or stop light my bike will do this chugging thing and sometimes stall sounds like its running on 1 cylinder i have to give it alot of throtle and let the cluch out realy slow to take off and the dealership said it had a code stored i think code 9 and that i would need a new ecu now my bike runs fine other than that little bit in the verly low rpm range up to about 2000 maybe this just dosnt make any sence to me do i realy need a new ecu? or is there somthing else going on here
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Throwing code 11 speed sensor or connection of
My 01 is doing the same thing but mine is throwing code 11 which is speed sensor or connection of. I was just searching to see if anyone was having the same issue. Anyone deal with speed sensor issues? I do have 23k hard miles on it.
My 01 is doing the same thing but mine is throwing code 11 which is speed sensor or connection of. I was just searching to see if anyone was having the same issue. Anyone deal with speed sensor issues? I do have 23k hard miles on it.
Keith
definitely get a service manual and check the code your self. Its not that hard to check.
definitely get a service manual and check the code your self. Its not that hard to check.
I was having the exact same problem with my 03 as well. Just bought the bike, only had 8800 miles. I did adjust the idle up a bit (still within specs) and it does seem to be better. Plus, I give "him" extra time to warm up. The service manual is very user friendly.
yeah i checked the plugs when it first started doing it and replaced them neither wer the right ones or the same plug but i did put the right ones in and no betterCheck your plugs first they might look okay, like mine . My bike was stalling at idle and had lack of power. Also check www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp You get free manuals online, just takes a while to download due to large file size. Good luck.
Resolved the speed sensor issue
the speed sensor is basically a magnet so if metal gets thrown on it by hard shifts then it may cause it to read abnormal. In my case this caused a sputter @ idel. I just removed it cleaned and replaced problem solved.
the speed sensor is basically a magnet so if metal gets thrown on it by hard shifts then it may cause it to read abnormal. In my case this caused a sputter @ idel. I just removed it cleaned and replaced problem solved.
i found a page on another forum that listed all the codes and what they ment but code 9 was at the bottom and the websights logo was covering it can anyone with a manual please post up what code 9 means
my service manual is only good for 00-01.. Sorry if u want me to post it any way let me know.
Code 9 is a problem with the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor.
Either due to a sensor problem or electrical/wiring problem.
The system will use default preset value of (20 deg. C, or 68 Deg. F) as a fail-safe.
Either due to a sensor problem or electrical/wiring problem.
The system will use default preset value of (20 deg. C, or 68 Deg. F) as a fail-safe.
thank you so much for that info i orderd a new one becouse it was only 17 dollers would a bad iat sensor make my bike act like this? now with the colder weather it isnt acting up as much but it still doesCode 9 is a problem with the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor.
Either due to a sensor problem or electrical/wiring problem.
The system will use default preset value of (20 deg. C, or 68 Deg. F) as a fail-safe.
Well warm or hot air is less dense than cold, so if the IAT isn't working, and the system falls back to a default value of 68 Deg. F, then the fuel mix won't be ideal and will be slightly rich.thank you so much for that info i orderd a new one becouse it was only 17 dollers would a bad iat sensor make my bike act like this? now with the colder weather it isnt acting up as much but it still does
As the air temp falls closer to the default value, the fuel mix should fall to a more normal ratio and run better.
Now all I did was repeat the code result. Your bike may have other issues.
The system keeps a history of all codes. Is a 9 the only code or are there more?
i just learned how to read the code and i jumped the two wires with a paper clip and turned the key on and it blinks 9 short times and then will blink another 9 short times so this is just the one code right?
That's correct. The system will show all stored codes from lowest number to highest number.i just learned how to read the code and i jumped the two wires with a paper clip and turned the key on and it blinks 9 short times and then will blink another 9 short times so this is just the one code right?
A long (1.3 sec) blink indicated a decimal 10 place holder, so a one-long, one-short is a code 11. The codes go from 0 to 20.
ok i found the papers from the dealer from when i brought it in and it says on the paper that the code 9 is a ait sensor and it was traced back to the ecu i never looked at the papers cuz i gave them to my freind when i picked it up and theyv been in his car eversince
So did the IAT sensor or the ECU correct the problem?
not sure yet the sensor should come in tomorrow and theres noway im buying a new ecu im guna have to find a used one or something but wouldnt that throw a code 20 if there was something wrong with the ecu?
According to the chart, with a code 20 the engine will run normally.
But the ECM has a bad EEPROM, and won't hold self-diagnostics data.
What exactly are the symptoms you're bike is having?
As in engine behavior at certain throttle setting, engine RPM, load, temp, etc.
And state of wiring harness/cables (frayed, pinched, etc).
Maybe there are other issues beyond the FI system.
But the ECM has a bad EEPROM, and won't hold self-diagnostics data.
What exactly are the symptoms you're bike is having?
As in engine behavior at certain throttle setting, engine RPM, load, temp, etc.
And state of wiring harness/cables (frayed, pinched, etc).
Maybe there are other issues beyond the FI system.
ok basicly when i first start the bike up it idels but will drop almost stall then kick back in almost like its misfireing a cylender and when taking off from a stop i have to ride the clutch out bad for it not to stall and sometimes it will run on one cylender and ill have to pull the clutch in and clear it out with acouple good revs. most of the time this happens under hard aceloration. when i have it just ideling after a ride or befor if i grab a whole bunch of throttle it either just completly stalls or will just chug and basicly sounds like its running on one cylender. now it acts like this probly 98% of the time once in a while it will take off from a stop fine and rev fine but it wont last long.. hope this helps you help me thanks for all the help
So if I understand all this...ok basicly when i first start the bike up it idels but will drop almost stall then kick back in almost like its misfireing a cylender and when taking off from a stop i have to ride the clutch out bad for it not to stall and sometimes it will run on one cylender and ill have to pull the clutch in and clear it out with acouple good revs. most of the time this happens under hard aceloration. when i have it just ideling after a ride or befor if i grab a whole bunch of throttle it either just completly stalls or will just chug and basicly sounds like its running on one cylender. now it acts like this probly 98% of the time once in a while it will take off from a stop fine and rev fine but it wont last long.. hope this helps you help me thanks for all the help
1) You first start the bike (engine cold or warm?), it idles but will either lose RPM or misfile on one cylinder.
2) You have to apply plenty of throttle and feather the clutch to take off from a stop, again with a misfile on one cylinder.
3) Most of the misfiles occur during moderate or hard acceleration.
4) However it can also misfire or stall while idling at normal engine temp.
5) Sporadically, it will run file for a short time and then start misfiring.
Q) Does the misfiles happen on one specific cylinder or either cylinder?
Since the misfiles and stalling happen whether the engine is cold or hot, and at all throttle ranges, coupled with no FI codes other than 9 (bad IAT or wiring), and if it occurs on one specific cylinder, then..
I'd first suspect a bad ignition coil/H-T lead, or wiring to the coil.
If the misfires occur on both cylinders then it more complicated.
I've seen where coils will work fine until warm, then insulation starts breaking down and shorting. Not to mention worn/cracked HT leads to the plugs.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
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