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Got new battery , volt regulator, stator was said to be good and bought a computer for it. Still no charge. Sitting not running battery test 12. Vts running dropped to 10 please help before I sell
 

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Do you have voltage on the 3 yellow wires to the regulator with the bike running? Should be seeing about 6.5 volts.


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Measure the volts on the yellow wires. If your not getting 6 to 6.5 volts i would start questioning the stator. How did you figure the stator was good?


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Do you have voltage on the 3 yellow wires to the regulator with the bike running? Should be seeing about 6.5 volts.


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I don't think this is right.
The three yellow wires are AC voltage, and there's enough voltage to really get your attention if you mishandle them in any way, which can be dangerous for you and/or your bike's electrical system.

The Honda Service Manual gives the following instructions for checking the stator.
 

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If you check for resistance with an Ohm meter between either one of the yellow wires and the chassis there should not be any (infinite resistance means stator is OK).
Measure the output voltage between each pair of the yellow wires (3 measurements). At idle you should get 12-15V AC and at 5000rpm more than 40V AC on each pair.
If all the above stand correct you probably need a new regulator/rectifier assy.
 

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If you check for resistance with an Ohm meter between either one of the yellow wires and the chassis there should not be any (infinite resistance means stator is OK).
Measure the output voltage between each pair of the yellow wires (3 measurements). At idle you should get 12-15V AC and at 5000rpm more than 40V AC on each pair.
If all the above stand correct you probably need a new regulator/rectifier assy.
So you need to have your multi-meter set to AC voltage - correct?
And you're saying to test two of the three yellow wires at a time?
That would mean putting the + lead to one yellow wire and the - lead to another yellow wire?
How safe is this procedure?
 

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Very safe.
There aren't any Amps to hurt you. Voltage itself doesn't hurt :)

Remember the last time you grounded an ignition coil through you?
It shocked you due to it's 10.000V but didn't hurt you cause there are no Amps there ;)

The stator produces a three phase AC in triangle arrangement with no neutral line. This setup is called "triangle".

Wikipedia said:
Three-phase electrical generation is very common. The simplest case is three separate coils in the generator stator that are physically offset by an angle of 120° to each other. Three current waveforms are produced that are equal in magnitude and 120° out of phase to each other.
 

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Ok, thanks for that Makis.
On another forum, where a guy is having trouble with his 954 stator, a member said 65V was a little low. He went on to say should be around 80 - 90V. Does that sound right to you?
He went on to say that cheap multi-meters aren't too accurate measuring AC voltage. What do you think?
 

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Hmm glad someone else chimed in. Ive always tested them the other way with success i guess because 12 volts ac will read 6 volts in the dc scale


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Ok, thanks for that Makis.
On another forum, where a guy is having trouble with his 954 stator, a member said 65V was a little low. He went on to say should be around 80 - 90V. Does that sound right to you?
He went on to say that cheap multi-meters aren't too accurate measuring AC voltage. What do you think?
At 4000rpm, any reading over 40-50V AC on each yellow pair of wires is OK.
What the guy is saying I should verify it before saying if he's right or not but when we check the AC output on the stator, we do that to make sure that we have enough charging power considering the other variables too. Stator coil's resistance as well as the DC power on battery's terminals.
If for example we read 50V at 4000rpm and the actual reading is 48V or 55V it really doesn't matter. But at those rpm won't read 80V. That's for sure.
When a stator goes bad it looses at least 50% if not all of it's coil's output so accuracy reading on AC are not that crucial.
And of course you compare the reading on each pair of the yellow wires to be exactly the same.
So multi meter's loss of accuracy would be the same for all coils making your comparison accurate anyway.
 

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I'll shoot a video on my RC once I get the chance considering it's OK and charging like a powerplant facility:D

However if one needs an 100% accurate readings, should be equipped with quite expensive instruments and take into consideration many more variables in the equation such as coil's working temp, engine's oil temp as well as the wires inner resistance at different ambient temperatures. But that will only pin point a real value more than tell one if the stator is OK or not.
 

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A video on how to properly test a stator? That would be cool. Thanks and my bad for misleading information.


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Makis, how did you post this. Except for right here in this thread, I cannot find any trace of it anywhere else; i.e. the Active Topis.
This really belongs in the How To forum.
I added it as a post in my thread
It's #171 here
Right before you start bitchin' about the throttle tube :D

My whole thread is a How To, isn't it? ;)
 
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