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Yes it is.
And is generally way to high for ordinary use.
A very good compromise is 15/41.
You can take off with little clutch slippage and yet cruise at way over the speed limit with no problem.
Changes the indicated speed by 7 MPH higher than actual.
If you desire accuracy, you can buy a SpeedoHealer that interconnects between your speed sensor output and speedometer to show actual indicated speed.
 

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Stock final drive ratio (16T/40T) is set far too high (1st gear good for over 80 MPH).
It requires a lot of clutch slippage to take off from a stop and it doesn't allow the engine to operate in the best power range.
By changing the sprockets to 15 tooth front and 41 tooth rear, the engine requires very little slippage to launch from a stop and yet still allows high speeds.
It allows the engine to better operate in it's power band over all 6 gears.

It is recommended not to install a front sprocket lower than 15 tooth.
It creates added chain and sprocket wear. Better to add teeth at rear sprocket.
 

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Somebody wants to trade me with his 04 RC51 Nikky Hayden model with my 03 Kawasaki 600RR. I drove the RC 51 and I am definitely not used to the vibration of the twin. My concern is that in slow traffice it is so hard to keep it in the right gear and when cruising you can barely get out of second gear without the engine lagging and when crusing at lower RPM's you could feel the jerking of the bike.

Is it me or is it really like this? Will the change in gearing make this more driveable? I do not race but really like the bike. It is just so hard to drive around they way it is. If I change the gearing where can I buy it and how much does it cost?

Thanks,

jay
 

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What RPM are you at when this occurs?
These bikes aren't Harleys and prefer to rev.
I know mine really doesn't like it much when I go below 3500 RPM.
I sometimes have to slip the clutch to prevent the bike from bucking at such slow speeds. Get her up to 4000 RPM and she's happy.

Changing the final ratio to 15/41, 42, or even 43 will allow the engine to run better in it's power band.
It's well known that Honda over-geared the bike as delivered.
 

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What RPM are you at when this occurs?
These bikes aren't Harleys and prefer to rev.
I know mine really doesn't like it much when I go below 3500 RPM.
I sometimes have to slip the clutch to prevent the bike from bucking at such slow speeds. Get her up to 4000 RPM and she's happy.

Changing the final ratio to 15/41, 42, or even 43 will allow the engine to run better in it's power band.
It's well known that Honda over-geared the bike as delivered.

You got the words out of my head. I could not use 3rd gear it would be below 3500 rpm at normal traffic speeds. My 600RR would be able to use all 6 gears on the route I tried the RC51. How much would be a set of gears? What would you suggest I get? It is also very slippery on Guam.

On a note how is the maintenance on the RC51 compared to the 600RR?
 

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The RC51 is one of the most reliable engines Honda made (per UK bike magazine).
I've got over 40K miles on mine and I've heard of others that have 60K+ and even 100K miles.
The valve check internal is every 16K miles, and from 24K to 40K miles I only had one exhaust valve barely out of spec.
As with any engine, routine maintenance is the key.
Treat her lovingly and she will reward you.
And since Guam has a lot of salt air, buy a tube of dielectric grease and apply to every electrical connector you can, including the battery posts.
It waterproofs, prevents corrosion, and lubes the connectors.
Also put a dab on the spark plug boots and caps, it will prevent the rubber from bonding to the plug porcelain.

Do they still use shells mixed with asphalt to pave the roads?
It's been ages since I was on Guam. Where do you find the roads to open her up?
It's not a huge island.
There used to be a long stretch from Agana down to the tip where the Navy base was.
Of course you had to watch for the crabs on the roads at night. :)

You can choose from many different brands of sprockets.
For the rear you can use steel, aluminum, or a hybrid of both (Stealth sprocket).

A set of sprockets might run around $100 more or less (no chain).
 

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Do they still use shells mixed with asphalt to pave the roads?
It's been ages since I was on Guam. Where do you find the roads to open her up?
It's not a huge island.
There used to be a long stretch from Agana down to the tip where the Navy base was.
Of course you had to watch for the crabs on the roads at night.

hahahah, you got it right. I like the RC51 but I also want to be able to drive it around and enjoy it. I do not go very fast there is no place to go anyway. Should I swap the 600RR the RC51 will also hold its value longer.

Will I need to replace the chain if I replace the sprockets? Any suggestions on the ratio?
 

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By going -1 in front and +1 in back, you might not need any chain length changes.
Any other additions in back and you might need a longer chain.
 

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What is the advantage by going 520 pitch on the chain instead of the 530 pitch? If I do this do you think drivability would improve significantly?
 

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What ratio do you suggest 15/41, 15/42 or 15/43? Lots of stop and go, slippery roads, fastest speed limit on Guam is 45mph. Can I install this myself? I have decided to trade the 600rr for the 04 RC51.

So please be patient with some of my questions.
 

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What is the advantage by going 520 pitch on the chain instead of the 530 pitch? If I do this do you think drivability would improve significantly?
The only major advantage of a 520 over a 530 is weight.
The chains are the same pitch (distance between pins) but the 520 is narrower than a 530, so less metal equals less weight.
A 530 RK X-ring chain of standard length weights about 4 lbs.

The 520 chain and sprockets might possibly cost a bit less.

Drivebility should remain the same for normal use.
 

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The only major advantage of a 520 over a 530 is weight.
The chains are the same pitch (distance between pins) but the 520 is narrower than a 530, so less metal equals less weight.
A 530 RK X-ring chain of standard length weights about 4 lbs.

The 520 chain and sprockets might possibly cost a bit less.

Drivebility should remain the same for normal use.
Thank you very much, because of cost can I just change the rear sprocket and keep the front the same? Any suggestions if this is possible?

Does anybody have any experience with changing the sprockets and any comments on the result?
 

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Does anybody have any experience with changing the sprockets and any comments on the result?
I don't know about RC51's, but the rear sprocket should be very easy to swap, you will have to remove the rear tire, so get a bike stand if you don't already have one. Get the rear tire loose, remove the chain and brake caliper, then pull the tire out. Then just unbolt the sprocket, and bolt in your new one.

As for the front one, it is a bit more work, took me about 30-40mins by myself to get to the front sprocket, there's some stuff in the way, but it was just bolts n such, nothing drastic, just remember where everything went when ya took it apart.


As for keeping the front sprocket, yes you can, but you can only go up maybe 2 in the rear before you will need a bigger chain. Going down one in the front will give you a little more flexibility with the chain in the rear. Also, going down one in the front is similar to going up 3 in the rear, will make the bike noticeable torquier(if thats a word, lol), which will get the bike into it's power band faster.
 

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I just received my Renthal sprockets and DID chain i went with 15 on the front and 42 on the rear let you know what i think in a few days!! On my 954rr i went down 1 in the front and up 2 in the rear and i had problems keeping the front wheel on the ground I hope i dont have the same problems..
 

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I just received my Renthal sprockets and DID chain i went with 15 on the front and 42 on the rear let you know what i think in a few days!! On my 954rr i went down 1 in the front and up 2 in the rear and i had problems keeping the front wheel on the ground I hope i dont have the same problems..
Any news on this?
 
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