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I'm not satisfied with the front brake callipers, despite cleaning, the bolts that hold the calliper halves together are rusty and thats bugging me…a lot, my OCD cant deal with that. I may have to swap the callipers out or buy new bolts and rebuild these ones.
Im actually rebuilding mine at work during my lunch break. Its a pain to get the old gold finish to clean up well. I did use some of the shops detail supplies to get it relatively clean. Separated the calipers to replace all the seals, pretty easy and straight forward. I just wish I had the specific seal lubricant for the piston seals, brake fluid just does not help sliding the pistons back in easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Im still waiting on my SS bolt kit to arrive.... taking forever
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Yea, you could be right, but the pro's out weigh the con's. (y)

Just tried to put the OEM silencers back on my SP2, but ...dom on me, I have a full Jardine system it seems and I dont have the OEM header pipes. Searched EBay, but im not paying those prices, they're nuts with the exchange rate and shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Heading to the paint shop on Monday. Looks like ill be getting the painting done next week.

Just sourcing a new battery now.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Got my Battery, and dropped the bodywork off for paint today, should have that back next week.

Still waiting on my calliper bolts, I think COVID19 is causing a lot of delays with shipping theses days. Im also waiting on a new M2/M3 Gear for my VF1000R to come from Japan tats also taking for ever.
 

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^^^^
Stuff your bolts and gear. I am waiting for my paid for RR-R SP:(.

(They are in Honda warehouse, but still no deliveries cos dealers closed. We have an expected relaxing of rules to be announced this Sunday coming)
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Ahhhhh, you got lots a time, whats your rush.

It will make its arrival all the sweeter. I predict it will arrive before October 1st, so....not to worry, mustn't grumble eh Nigel.

LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Back to the Ducati 748 until the RC51 parts are painted. Crack in one of the mid panels form a previously and poorly made repair. I hate un-doing other peoples repairs, why some people think fibreglass resin and cloth can be used to repair ABS plastic is a mystery to me. so all th eMids and lowers will get re-painted. Hopefully drop these off when I pickup the RC parts
 

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. . . why some people think fibreglass resin and cloth can be used to repair ABS plastic is a mystery to me. . .
Huh?

I've done it successfully - or so I thought!:eek:
I used the glass fibre rather than cloth to do a repair of the rear cowl of an aprilia RS50. Strength was important because a screw hole was involved also. Would be pleased to be guided for your thoughts against this.(y)
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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
It will hold for a while Nigel, but cracks will return for sure. its not hard to put a blade under it or a screwdriver and just pop it right off.

To repair ABS plastic you really have to use plastic welding, or a product like Plastex, Qbond or the like. There are also some Epoxy products that work (Some dont). Plastex is what I prefer to replace broken off tabs, you can reproduce a tab with no problem at all, you can also fix cracks very easily and its very strong and flexes like the old ABS. I made all new tabs on the seat cowl of my VF1000R from plastex. The kit comes with a moulding bar that you use to take the shape of a good tab and then you attach it to the broken area and use the plastex powder and solution to create a new one

Plastic welding works well when you have no reliable way to hold the form/shape of the part your trying to fix while you wait for a product like plates to set up. For example when I fixed the upper fairing on the RC51, there was so much stress in the area that I needed to repair, I had to tack weld it via plastic welding before it used the plastex, that way it held its shape.

Fiberglass doesnt flex at the same rate and just doesnt bond well to ABS, in addition its typically not making its way into the crack that your fixing (if you fixing a crack).

I initially learned about not using fibreglass on ABS from my buddy who's got his own body shop (he does my paint work) but Ive seen it for myself many many times after years of re-fixing old repairs that just haven't held up over time. This recent fix on the Duc was one example, it looked so strong and well bonded but since the paint cracked I knew it had not penetrated the crack it intended to repair. I wondered how hard it was going to be to get off as it looked solid fro the back side where all the glass matt was. A few minutes with a razor blade and a screw driver and it popped right off revealing a crack that I then repaired with plastex,

Even on fibreglass panel repairs there are now far better products out there that make a much stronger repair than using fibreglass resin/cloth/Mat/etc. ) Pollyall 2000 is one such product that I use on fibreglass, but there are even better ones out there now. Problem with fixing fibreglass fairings (like the VF1000R fairing) is that a secondary repair isn't as strong, reason is the resin is thick and doesnt penetrate the old glass very well. Resin and mat can still be used with success on fibreglass on bikes, Im just saying that there are better products today, just dont do it on ABS or GRP (glass reenforced plastic).

The Boat & Auto repair industry are moving away from fixing fibreglass boats/cars with resin/mat/cloth and have moved to other superior products.
 

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Cheers Dave, for such a detailed response. Happy to find that we have Plastex available here, although I don't have any use for it at the mo'; BUT one never knows what purchases requiring repairs might lay ahead. :)

Guess I'll never if the repair as shown above ever held up because I sold the bike shortly after to make way for another Honda!!(y)

Hope you get a delivery this week!!
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
1st pic - Polyall2000, use in conjunction with fibreglass Mat and Cloth to fix fiberglass fairings. Wen first mixed it has the viscosity of water so it penetrates the existing glasswork very well. it sets up VERY fast, you can grind shape and sand it in 10-15 minutes. The down side is you have to be well organized and work in smaller batches with this stuff.

2nd (blurry) pic, is the tab I made with Plastex on my VF1000R seat cowl, its just as strong if not stronger than the exiting tabs. Note that Plastex does not work on Urethane plastic like dirt bike plastics



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Discussion Starter #74
No Problem Nigel, if you even need Plastex, note that its available in different colours as well. in some cases (like crack fixes) having the right colour may save you from having to get paintwork done if the repair isn't in line of sight.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
The other method that can work well on ABS for cracks, is to shave and old section of ABS fairing, create a pile of shavings or abs powder, put it in a small glass jar and add Acetone and leave it to dissolve. It makes an effective glue for ABS plastic and its an integral fix like Plastex, not a surface patch. A bit like using ABS plumbing solvent on black ABS plumbing pipe, it melts the ABS so to speak.

I have a bunch of old ABS fairing parts that I use to make welding rod or I drill holes in it to get the drill swarf to use for ABS/Acetone paste.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Coz we all like pictures. Here she waits ..

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Ooooh. The swing arm decals are not original!!:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Great job Dave. Can't wait to see the finished product!
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
To be honest, I have no idea on that Nigel. They sure look stock. But I don't see the "Honda" decals on other bikes on Google.

the square one on the left side is a Notification decal applied to Canadian bikes to indicate compliance with Transport Canada regs etc. Definitely came from the dealer like that.

My new theory, (that I made up just now, just to stir the pot) is the "Honda" decals were applied to the first 50 bikes built at HRC, the very fastest and rarest of the SP1's, and all shipped to Canada. They apparently increase the value 10x over a standard SP1.

How does that sound ?. LOL
 

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. . . My new theory, (that I made up just now, just to stir the pot) is the "Honda" decals were applied to the first 50 bikes built at HRC, the very fastest and rarest of the SP1's, and all shipped to Canada. They apparently increase the value 10x over a standard SP1.

How does that sound ?. LOL
Has merit, especially if those bikes were the red ones, which is universally accepted as the fastest colour and the reason Honda later identified its reds as 'Winning Red' and 'Victory Red'. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #80 (Edited)
Bodywork is back from paint. Ill give it a few days to Harden up even more before I get into decals and re mounting the tank etc. I find the paint needs a good week + to be hard enough to handle and install without damaging it.

Had original panels optically scanned for colour matching. The Silver was an exact match. the Red was also very very close. Had the rear satin black number plates painted on like OEM and the centre tail panel will be decals like OEM. We kept the original satin black paint on the upper fairing, it was in perfect shape.

Tank wasn't repainted in totality, it was blown in to deal with some paint chips and where the seat rubbed through the red, and the whole tank was re clear-coated.

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