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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sitting here on the side of the interstate with nothing but time.

Ive been through all sorts of crap with this bike lately. I left to do the weekly bike meet across town and while i was coming around the on ramp the bike would rev as i twisted the throttle but was real sluggish and hardly wanted to move. Traffic was bumber to bumper an it finally wont go anymore.

It will shift down into firat and neutral, 2nd will go but it goes in with a hard jolt, the rest also shift fine...ish. bike simply will not move forward though. At one point it suddenly tried to grab and take off forqard while trying to get to the emergency lane and scared the shit out of me but now that im here it wont do anything.

Clutch? Shift forks? Idk, i just replaced the sprockets and chain and it did this once before warlier in the week but only for a very short moment and thwn it was fine.

Advice? This thing is picking me to death the last few months.
 

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is your clutch bled properly? maybe check for clutch disc wear
 

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Sounds like clutch plates slipping or not engaging. How does your clutch handle feel?
 

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Run your finger under the bottom of the clutch slave cylinder and check for fluid residue.
There's a hole under the bottom that allows escaping fluid to drip past.
If there's accumulated fluid there, the slave cylinder cup seal is going bad and allowing brake fluid to pass by, therefore not holding pressure.
Happened to my VFR800, which uses a similar slave cylinder design.
 

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could be those aftermarket levers are not allowing the return port in the master cylinder to fully open and return fluid, try taking the lever off and using a stock one
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The clutch lever feels normal, i had to bleed it after doing the sprocket an it blead out like normal, took a long time but it did bleed. I'll have to check the cylinder for seepage when i got home tonight.

Not sure what to say about the levers, i dont have any stock ones. The brake side was bent real bad an i threw both the old ones away when i replaced them.
 

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take the bolt out that holds the lever on, if you need to push the master cylinder piston in to replace the bolt it could well be the cause of your problem
 

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clutch bleeding issue for sure. if you can back-bleed it with a pressure bleeder (basically a syringe and hose on the bottom bleeder), it makes life much easier. because of the upward angle of the master cylinder, air often gets trapped up in the top of the line at the banjo bolt. you might be able to crack that bolt with the lever pulled and get the bubble out.
 

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clutch bleeding issue for sure. if you can back-bleed it with a pressure bleeder (basically a syringe and hose on the bottom bleeder), it makes life much easier. because of the upward angle of the master cylinder, air often gets trapped up in the top of the line at the banjo bolt. you might be able to crack that bolt with the lever pulled and get the bubble out.
It is slipping, not dragging, if there were air in the system it would drag, it is the slave stuck, either because it is corroded and sticking or is being maintained under pressure
 

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air can also expand when the line warms up, causing slipping. and/or dragging. all of the above is possible! then the clutch gets hot, the plates get glazed, the oil gets nasty, and you get to have fun times cleaning it all up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Didn`t get home from work until after dark so not much i could do tonight. i went out there with a flash light and didnt find any moisture or evidence of seepage down at the slave cylinder nor did i find any at the banjo bolt at the lever. When i was bleeding the clutch i did have to crack the banjo open up top just barely to make it bleed because of the air rising up the line. I just feel that if the clutch was going bad i should have noticed it gradually go out rather than just take a dump and die all at one time. Which leads me to believe i done goofed in the bleeding process and glazed an other wise perfectly good clutch and wasted an oil change with less than 25 miles on it.

But then again everything i touch somehow gets worse so idk?
 

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It'll be OK Hooch:) I just went through this on my race bike and my street bike; on the race bike I just cleaned up the steels, clean them up carefully with either glass bead blasting or soaking them in some aggressive oven cleaner. I also give mine a scrub with some sandpaper, drag racing eats clutches like nobody's business. as far as the frictions go, if they are within spec you should be able to put them back in and run them successfully. good luck!
 

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When you change the sprocket you don't need to bleed the clutch. In fact you can do the job without needing to remove the one bolt. I'd say try to bleed the system again. In the service manual it describes pulling and holding the clutch handle after attaching a clear hose to the bleeder. Crack the bleeder open to let the pressure out, close the bleeder and let the handle out. Repeat the process over and over. The clutch fluid gets nasty over time anyway and this needs to be done regularly.

Also wondering what type of oil you used. Since you just did an oil change I am wondering if the oil didn't have something to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, so i have new information. Not a whole lot but definitely something! First off i wanna say thanks for coming here and lending your time an info, it`s appreciated.

I spent most of the day re organizing tools and cleaning out the work shed to make space to move the bike back in there, when i went to move the bike i figured i would start it up to see what it would do. Go figure it would shift, move an accelerate just fine! clutch worked perfectly? So i`m guessing once ive been on the bike for a few miles something about the hydrolic clutch line is just fouling up? Does the clutch fluid even get hot to begin with? is there something else i could be neglecting that`s not the clutch line at all?

i tried bleeding it again but didnt really get anything, even lightly cracked open the banjo bolt.

Also one of you asked about oil, i`m running the Mobile 1 advanced full synthetic performance motorcycle oil, race 4T...... 10w 40? i could be wrong about the 10w 40 part, it`s been hours since i looked at the empty bottle that was in the trash.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The levers were changed while the bike was down for an extended period of time. But they have been on there since i finally pulled it out of the shed to ride it. They seem to work fine and the issue only shows itself after being out and riding for a little bit. Although they do sit a little bit loose compared to stock, tiny bit of play. Yesterday i just took it around the property some but wasnt on it long enough to experience any issues. Seems like once it sits for a few hours its starts working again.

Its been in my shed since october or november, in that time ive replaced the swing arm, hub/ bearing and spacers, rerouted a bunch of shooty wiring, replaced tail lights, install a fan and switch, replace both sprockets and chain, replace levers, change the oil and did a lot of fine detailed cleaning. There was a big shipping mix up where sprocket and chains had to be returned twice and during that time the slave cyl was disconnected and just zip tied out of the way.

It worked perfectly before i started any of this, aside from the swing arm i destroyed.
The bike is cobbled together from multiple rc....for instance its an sp2 with an sp1 cooling system. It also came with a bunch of unused sp1 items such as engine, wiring harness, rear shock, ecm's, sp1 wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No, threw them away because they were mix matched and bent. They're long gone now.

The one i took off the clutch side was some fake carbon fiber one that was really long and looked like hell.
 

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If you pulled the lever and then cracked the bleeder but got nothing out I think your problem is with contamination in the system or a collapsed hose. Even if the fluid was getting hot and the lever wasn't allowing expansion, the bleeder should at the very least let you bleed the system as designed. You may need to open it a half turn or so. (just like bleeding brakes, and make sure you have a clear tube attached so you don't ruin the paint job)
 
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