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Discussion Starter #1
Couple questions about track day prep:
1. Is there a fuse/fuses I can pull that would kill power to all the lights?
2. Any tips/tricks on how to keep the removable cover on the tail from being so loose? People behind me say that the cover is bouncing up and down quite a bit when we are out riding. I plan to tape it down for the track, but there has to be a way to make a better fit? I have checked the bolt inside the tail that holds the locking mechanism, seems tight.

Thanks for the help all!

Jim
 

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There is a foam seal around the perimeter of the cover. May have deteriorated over time and allows a loose fit? Honda part 77223-MCF-300 still listed as available at about $3.22. Maybe double up on it. Could be wear on the metal catch on the lid, it should have a plastic piece on either side of the metal loop to limit front to rear movement I would guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That could be it! Def no foam back there.
 

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Are you missing the rubber seal that goes between the cover and the tail? SEAL, SEAT COWL PANEL 77223-MCF-300

I'm starting my track day experience as well this summer but I was just planning on pulling the plugs to the headlights and taillights. My eyebrow lights are powered from the headlight and there's no running light to my LED turn signals.
 

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Yup...no rubber/foam on the cover. Just ordered a seal! Thanks for the info! Slowly learning this bike.....
 

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On unplugging your lights, make sure your regulator and battery are on optimal condition. When you unplug your lights the load is out of balance with the charging system so the generator is producing more than the system requires. Normally not going to be an issue with a healthy system for occasional track days but if battery is old or system charging on the high end could be a problem. Never heard of this being a problem before until I was reading about the series regulator on roadstercycle.com. Probably worth a check for discoloration at the 3 yellow wires at the reg/rectifier connection and using some dielectric grease on the related connectors. Or maybe I was just talking myself into buying a series regulator.
 

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FYI, I looked at the wiring diagram fuse block.
C is the 20A headlight
D is the 10A turn signal, front/rear brake, horn
E is the 10A meter, tail, illumination <-- not sure about these
 

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If you unplug the headlight fuse the start button won't work.

Better to just unplug the headlights at the socket.


The turn signal fuse won't matter so there no reason to pull it

If you pull the illumination fuse youll lose your dash.



So all in all, don't pull any fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you unplug the headlight fuse the start button won't work.

Better to just unplug the headlights at the socket.


The turn signal fuse won't matter so there no reason to pull it

If you pull the illumination fuse youll lose your dash.



So all in all, don't pull any fuses.
OK cool....tape it is over the lights
 

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Yup...no rubber/foam on the cover. Just ordered a seal! Thanks for the info! Slowly learning this bike.....


That rubber seal is meant to be used in combination with the seat pad. But if it fixed your issue then good too!
 

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Where the seat and cover hook in to the front , under the round part of the sub frame , I put a piece of clear vinyl tubing around it to snug up the fit so mine wouldn't rattle.
 

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Taping over the lights is as much about gluing together the fragile glass/plastic so it doesn't create a debris field in the event of a substantial get-off. Otherwise why bother worrying about headlights when no one has mirrors? Covering/defeating the taillight is about reducing the distraction, and resulting target fixation, for riders behind. Two recommendations - 1) use blue painters tape as it (generally) releases cleanly and won't leave your lenses all gooey. 2) Even with tape, defeat the headlight. It runs full time and may bake the tape, making removal more difficult. Have a fun and safe day out there!
 

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That rubber seal is meant to be used in combination with the seat pad. But if it fixed your issue then good too!
Two different parts Dutchy. One for the passenger seat described as "rubber, seat cowl" and separate part for cover "seal, seat panel" That last one is what he needs I think. Mine is about half gone but my panel always had a tight fit. Still have my passenger seat in the original box.:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ordered both since I do not have either one
 

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The #9 foam seal is paper thin, and will not take up any slop. I would check to make sure your locking mechanism is operating properly and holding seat cowl cover tightly. Would also add a longer bolt used to secure locking mechanism to sub frame and use loctite on bolt. Make sure you lift up on seat cowl as you tighten the franken bolts and two other screw head bolts. I also made aluminum brackets that go on my license plate mounting bolts and secure to the cross bar in subframe to help keep undertail from pulling seat cowl down. Could also use threaded rods that come off brake lights to attach little aluminum brackets and zip tie around cross bar that seat locking mechanism bolts to. Just worried about that option loosening up brake lights if have an aftermarket carbon undertail with brake light that is only weatherstripped in. But basically that #9 seal is just a very thin piece of foam and will not take up any space between cover and cowl, nice to have for paint protection, but that's about it.
 

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Before I put track bodywork on my SP I used a spray on black plastic coating on the headlights. Got it at the local NAPA store. One of our other members used the spray black as well (where I got the idea). Easy to remove for street riding once the day is done.
 
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