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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally got everything installed and buttoned up this weekend. Firts off, I'd like to say "Thanks" again to Scott at Scott's Motorcyle Service for his help and tips. He has been an awesome source of info and help, as well as showing great dedication to his customers.
I ordered the Turn One CF Race Airbox, CF Snorkel, Scott's LED Eyebrow kit, Kyle Racing clip ons, and a Factory Pro Shift Kit. I've installed everything except the shift kit, since I have to drain the oil and coolant to do it, and I'm waiting until my next oil change.
My first impressions of the carbon pieces were that the quality was very good, and that the weight difference between the blast furnace that is the stock unit and this piece is HUGE. The same goes for the snorkel. The instructions from Scott's were very detailed and well thought out, with plenty of numbered pictures for reference during the process.
Anyone considering this should be advised that these pieces will NOT bolt right up like the stock pieces. This is an involved, but not overly difficult install in my opinion. If you are not mechanically inclined, or do not wish to devote an entire day (possibly longer) to this install, find a professional to install it for you. I'm not going to detail the istall here, but just point out a few things to make you life easier if you decide to do it.

> First, try to use as much of the fuel in your tank as possible before beginning.
> Second although not mentioned in the instructions, a longer fuel return hose would be nice, since the CF unit has hole for it to enter and connect ot the thottle body assembly, and this restricts the rearward movement of the tank when accessing the airbox.
>Third, a small right angle screwdriver or a low profile rotator ratchet is a big help and aggravation saver when removing and retightening the throttle body to intake boot screws. They are deep in the airbox, and difficult to reach with conventional tools. Make sure they boot sare fully seated on the runners and tight before proceeding.
>Finally, make sure to route all your cables, hoses etc. into the airbox before securing it to the top of the intake runners. Be especially careful with the throttle cables, idle adjustment, and fast idle cables.
>>VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure you mark or measure and write down the distance the idle adjustment cable was threaded into the throttle body assembly. This ensures your idle is close to normal when firing the bike back up. I used a digital caliper, and mine was right at 6mm (5.98 actually).

>Regarding the Intake, a 10mm wrench with a flex head is a must. The locknut and washer that secures the upper cowl "special screw" ( the one above the intake opening under the windscreen) is a pain to tighten without one. I actually used a piece of duct tape tuirned sticky side out on my index finger to hold the locknut on the screw to start it, then tightened with the wrench.
Also, the intake bolts are secured on the inside of the frame with a washer and locknut, and they are pretty deep in the frame. The instructions call for a "spanner wrench", but that isn't what you need (not even sure if that is the right term). A 10mm flex wrench saves the day again here! It allows you to securely hold the locknut and tighten the bolts from the outside with a 5mm hex wrench. Trust me, this will save A LOT of cursing and aggravation. Start them with your finger, reaching in from the front of the snorkel. If your hands are too big, a shallow socket may help.

I also flipped the bolts securing the meter assembly bracket, so that the nuts were on top. The reason for this is that when you try to get a hex wrench in the bolt from the top, the meter is in the way and I did not want to scratch or scuff my meter assembly. I flipped the fasteners and used an open end wrench on the locknuts up top. Be sure to keep the wide washers on the inside of the snorkel. They look bad on top, plus they are necessary to spread the clamping forces of the fasteners. There are two smaller washers that go on top.

All in all, I am VERY happy with these mods. The quality is very good, and I can tell a big difference in weight up top. Nearly a 10 pound reduction!!! I need to measure to be sure. The throttle response is much improved, and the part throttle drivability improved as well. The throttle is not as jumpy as before at partial input.

A word regarding the necessity to have a custom remap for these mods:
In my opinion, it is NOT absolutely necessary. My converstaions with Scott on the subject confirmed this. Scott has not remapped or dynoed his bike since the swap, and he rides it all the time with no issues. He did say that it would maybe improve the power a tiny bit, but unless you race the bike and ride at WOT most of the time (street riders don't) it's may not be worth the money. There is a map for the Thorsten airbox on RC51.org which I plan to try and see how it works. My street rides have not shown any issues with the mapping, but it's worth looking into.
 

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A word regarding the necessity to have a custom remap for these mods: In my opinion, it is NOT absolutely necessary. My converstaions with Scott on the subject confirmed this. Scott has not remapped or dynoed his bike since the swap, and he rides it all the time with no issues. He did say that it would maybe improve the power a tiny bit, but unless you race the bike and ride at WOT most of the time (street riders don't) it's a waste of time and money. There is a map for the Thorsten airbox on RC51.org which I plan to try and see how it works. My street rides have not shown any issues with the mapping, but it's worth looking into.
Nice write up but I disagree with the above statement. A custom map is never a waste of money or time especially with this mod. All you are doing is spending a bunch of $$$ on something and not benefiting from its full potential. Because you have increased air speed and volume you have now affected every aspect of the 51's ability to produce power and run at its peak performance. Why spend all that money modding and not want to get that extra "tiny bit" of power? Why wouldn't you want your bike running at its peak? After installing my box and snorkel I took it to get dynoed and from my base run to my dialed in run I picked up 4hp. I'll pay for that all day long !!! 4 horse on these bikes is big and in my opinion well worth the $275 I paid to have everything singing in sync. FYI if you go to thorstens actual site he has custom maps on their you can download that work pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice write up but I disagree with the above statement. A custom map is never a waste of money or time especially with this mod. All you are doing is spending a bunch of $$$ on something and not benefiting from its full potential. Because you have increased air speed and volume you have now affected every aspect of the 51's ability to produce power and run at its peak performance. Why spend all that money modding and not want to get that extra "tiny bit" of power? Why wouldn't you want your bike running at its peak? After installing my box and snorkel I took it to get dynoed and from my base run to my dialed in run I picked up 4hp. I'll pay for that all day long !!! 4 horse on these bikes is big and in my opinion well worth the $275 I paid to have everything singing in sync. FYI if you go to thorstens actual site he has custom maps on their you can download that work pretty good.
I agree. Not a waste of time and money, but it's not a necessity. I cannot find the Thorsten maps on his site, can you post up the link?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't know he had a USA site. I'd been checking out his durbahn.de site looking ofr the maps. Thanks!

After looking through his available maps, I wasn't sure if they would be right, so I used Fiddy1's map for Sato Banzais and the airbox with flapper and pair mods. It's available here: http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=mods

It's an improvement over the Kyle map I had in there before.
 

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When you decide to take my advice and go get a custom map then you'll know for sure.

Good luck with what ever map you choose.

PS the Kyle map sucks you'll hear more bad things about it then good.
 

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Gd for u Defender that u have fixed your parts...mine still waiting due Scott have no more Turn one parts & waiting for Brett to get back to Australia...His in Vietnam & will be back on the 25 or 26 August..& he need to re mould again for a new stock & it will take sometime to do it.. I guess my parts will be arrived on Sept or Oct..

I want to order
1. Turnone airbox
2. Snorkel
3. Radiator Scoop
4. Soft Rev
5. Hyper Flux plate
6. Ceramic bearing
7. Factory Pro Shift Kit

Next Ordering List is Dan Kyle Shock Link & Slipper Clutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gd for u Defender that u have fixed your parts...mine still waiting due Scott have no more Turn one parts & waiting for Brett to get back to Australia...His in Vietnam & will be back on the 25 or 26 August..& he need to re mould again for a new stock & it will take sometime to do it.. I guess my parts will be arrived on Sept or Oct..

I want to order
1. Turnone airbox
2. Snorkel
3. Radiator Scoop
4. Soft Rev
5. Hyper Flux plate
6. Ceramic bearing
7. Factory Pro Shift Kit

Next Ordering List is Dan Kyle Shock Link & Slipper Clutch
Sounds like a good plan, mighty max. I'm still trying to find a good tuner here and get price on what jgos929 suggested.
 

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Near me its about $275 but I just read on another forum a guy got his done at a shop near him for $180. Definitely price out a couple of different places.
 

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In Singapore price range from $280 ABove(Sing Dollar)

Jgos929, can i fix new Hyper Flux Plate on a Slipper Clutch?
 

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Tks Jgos929..Yo Defender, informed us after u dyno the bike..What BHP u getting man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My appointment is set for 10am Saturday, and it looks like the weather may cooperate. I'll update when I get it done.
 

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I have ordered :

1. Turnone [email protected]$415
2. [email protected]$275
3. Radiator [email protected]$295
4. Soft Rev @$10
5. Hyper Flux [email protected]$102
6. Factory Pro Shift [email protected]$199
7. Dan Kyle Sock [email protected]$349


I wanted to order Ceramic bearing. Prices stated $160 but Scott quote me $460 due he said RC51 need 5 bearing..so it over from my budget.

Next Ordering List is Slipper Clutch from EU.

Parts will be arriving next end of the month(i guess due Brett will be back on the 25 or 26 Aug). Well i cant wait..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update

I took the RC in this morning to have her dyno tuned and a custom map made for her. I had been using the "fiddy1" map for a Thorsten Airbox, flapper, PAIR, and soft rev modded bike. We used this as a starting point and worked from there. The baseline run showed some lean conditions at various points in the powerband, the largest and most noticable around 5000 rpm and extending to just under 6000 rpm.

The baseline power was 120.2 hp/69.6 tq. He cleaned up the A/F ratio throughout the powerband, and brought everything closer to 13.0:1 A/F. The A/F line was very flat after cleanup, and the bike seemed to pick up a good bit in the midrange and at the very top end. When we finished, the bike put down 123.8 hp/ 70.3 lb.ft. The tech told me their dyno had been damaged by a lightning strike 6 months ago, and that it now reads somewhat low, between 3 and 5 hp according to their experience. The service manager agreed and said not to worry too much about the numbers. they are supposed to email me the graph, since the printer was not cooperating. (I don't have much experience with these bikes yet, but I'm guessing the torque numbers are pretty accurate, even if the power numbers are a tad low.)

I wasn't concerned about the numbers so much as I was making about sure the A/F ratio wasn't dangerously lean anywhere. I also wanted to see if it would improve the riding experience.

It definitely has.

The midrange seems much more lively, there are NO flat spots anywhere. and the low RPM hesitation at about 25-30 mph is much improved. I noticed this riding back into my neighborhood where the part throttle, low speed riding didn't use to make her very happy. Now she doesn't protest AS much, but she still lets me know she'd rather get out and stretch her legs.

For jgos929: Thanks for stressing the importance of the custom map!:eek:
 

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Gd for Man!...Hope you will be happy...Have u tried on track yet?..Play around with other bikes in track..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
YES SIR !!! Your #'s sound good and are almost identical to what I did. 4hp is a ton on these bikes. Congrats and I'm glad you did it. ;)
I am too, man. The more I ride it, the better it seems to get. She and I seem to be getting more and more in sync with each other every time we ride.
 
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