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Discussion Starter #1
I have some flush mounted front turn signals on my RC. I believe they are Hotbodies, not sure.
Anyway, I’m not exactly blown away by the brightness of these items. I would appreciate hearing from anyone with some better alternatives. I looked around the internet some and don’t really see much for these bikes.
 

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I'm the second owner of my RC which the previous owner had installed Greggs turn signals on. (First pic). They were NOT bright at all. I swapped those with some Proton Flush Mounts and was much happier with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. It looks like you had the same crappy signals that I have. I have also ordered the Proton turn signals. They look like they will work out very nicely. I am replacing the equally pathetic tail lights in my hotbodies tail unit with the Customled light cluster. Thanks for the input and photos.
 

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Hah! YES I did the exact same thing to my Underbodies tail with the CustomLED 1.85" clusters.

IF you have any questions on that or want photos let me know. I'm at work at the moment, but I kept my wiring diagrams and such when I did it.

Also, if you didn't get CustomLED's ELFR-1 flasher relay, I *HIGHLY* recommend it. Super easy install and all the signals blink at a normal rate.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have the Customled units ready to go. I have them wired up with new terminals and tested already. I already removed the old lights from the tail, just have to remove old led’s and replace. I am probably going to go with TST Industries plug-in flasher relay as it mounts right into the factory relay socket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Now I see that Customled flasher relay does the same. I will go with that and use same mfgr components. Thanks for the tip.
 

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I am doing the same conversion on my 00 trackbike, getting it back on the road. The Protons work fine when jumpered to the battery but when I connect them to the wiring harness they barely light up. I have the stock harness(just pulled the stock lights when it went to the track) and I am having two issues. when the signal switch is on either side, the selected side is unlit and the opposite side is dimly lit. When the switch is off they both are lit and I am seeing 6.78V across the blinker leads on the harness. I have checked the switch and the wining at the connector to the main harness and all wires match the diagram. With the lights disconnected from the harness I see 12.15V on the line??? I have disconnected every relay on the bike, the ecu. the fuel injection sub harness, brake and headlights and the ignition coils trying to isolate a bad ground or component leaking 6V. the switch ohm check is as expected in the manual and with the relay plug jumpered I should get full voltage when the signal switch is turned on(proton has a built in blink rate) I also see no volts on the running light, single green wire. I'm perplexed and frustrated so an help would be appreciated.
 

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What exact model # cluster unit did you guys use, for your RC? I have a shitty Hotbodies undertail as well. Went for a hot ride the other day. A guy that was behind me told me he almost ran into me, cause my brake lights are so poor! He couldnt tell that I was braking heavily I guess, and almost had a moment. I figure I'd better get that issue fixed. I want to just get a DHC tail, but might have to go this route for the time being. Looks like the round lights on the Hotbodies unit are glued in pretty well too. TIA!
 

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I am doing the same conversion on my 00 trackbike, getting it back on the road. The Protons work fine when jumpered to the battery but when I connect them to the wiring harness they barely light up. I have the stock harness(just pulled the stock lights when it went to the track) and I am having two issues. when the signal switch is on either side, the selected side is unlit and the opposite side is dimly lit. When the switch is off they both are lit and I am seeing 6.78V across the blinker leads on the harness. I have checked the switch and the wining at the connector to the main harness and all wires match the diagram. With the lights disconnected from the harness I see 12.15V on the line??? I have disconnected every relay on the bike, the ecu. the fuel injection sub harness, brake and headlights and the ignition coils trying to isolate a bad ground or component leaking 6V. the switch ohm check is as expected in the manual and with the relay plug jumpered I should get full voltage when the signal switch is turned on(proton has a built in blink rate) I also see no volts on the running light, single green wire. I'm perplexed and frustrated so an help would be appreciated.
check the connections in the large grey connector to the front sub harness. these are famous for corrosion and causing issues, unhook the battery before you clean it out as there's a constant 12v source in that connector and key-off won't de-energize everything.


also make sure you're using the solid orange and solid blue wires, the ones with the white tracer are run lights.

i don't know what "single green wire" running light you're referring to but perhaps this is the source of your problems. that green is the negative for the circuit.
 

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WIbbly,
Thank you for replying and especially for verbalizing the fact the green was a separate wire,but ground for the blu and blue/white wires. I had looked at the harness and diagram and know green is the ground in all applications on the bike but I assumed incorrectly that the two blues in the one connector made a circuit with the switch. I tried the last possible combination based on your statement(of truth) and they work as designed now. Also, note to all if you don't jumper the back relay wires or make sure to have a relay installed the front lights will light up backwards to the switch direction. I'm not going to try to understand that, but it's a fact, so if you are testing make sure some sort of solenoid is in place or jumper the white/green and grey wires to provide a sure current to the handlebar switch and prevent reverse flashing (that is not a real problem).
 

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Sorry Russ I haven't done the undertail mod so I don't have the hotbodies replacement cluster info. The one demoed on their site was a lot brighter than the others I have seen, and that's important for the brake lights, as you experienced. Glad the guy didn't punt you.
 

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don if you don't have the relay installed or a jumper in place, then you may be watching the behavior of the run lights.


the blue and orange that have white tracers are turned off when the blue and orange are turned on.

the signal switch itself disconnects the run light for the side you are signalling on. this allows the signals to work as both running lamps as well as signals.


so if you have the running lights hooked up (blue/white and orange/white), they'll both be on with the switch at rest, and when you move the switch it will extinguish the side you've moved the switch to. this is normal.

if you aren't using those wires, and only the solid blue and solid orange,this behavior is impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
What exact model # cluster unit did you guys use, for your RC? I have a shitty Hotbodies undertail as well. Went for a hot ride the other day. A guy that was behind me told me he almost ran into me, cause my brake lights are so poor! He couldnt tell that I was braking heavily I guess, and almost had a moment. I figure I'd better get that issue fixed. I want to just get a DHC tail, but might have to go this route for the time being. Looks like the round lights on the Hotbodies unit are glued in pretty well too. TIA!
I used Customled’s 1.85” Univesal LED Cluster as a straight up replacement. You will have to use a heat gun on the stock lights to soften the adhesive and then push the lenses back into the tail. The replacement LED cluster will fit into the stock round lenses. There are videos on YouTube that will show you how. Get the 4-wire conversion to run as run/brake/turn signal. You will also need the replacement relay to prevent hyper flashing of the turn signals. It will plug directly into the turn signal relay socket. Use the wiring diagram from the manual and you should be fine. These are a night and day improvement over the pathetic factory taillights supplied by Hotbodies. If that piece of crap wasn’t already on the bike I would have sent it right back.
 

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Thanks for the info guys!
 

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Cool Beans, got all the bits ordered. He has a nice, detailed, how-to on the Hot bodies upgrade. Thanks again!
 
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