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Discussion Starter #1
Im sure these questions have already been asked but any and all feedback is helpfull.

New to the sp2 and i would like to know how to get it to run cooler. If the soft rev eliminator is worth it. If there are any other mods please let me know. thanks
 

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you can get turn 1 radiator scoops and fins, you also can get a front mount radiator kit, there are a few manufactures for this. Not sure about the soft rev eliminator. Where are you located?
 

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Placing SPAL fans on the bike which pushes the air through vs pulling the air works great. I think the mod is over on speedzilla if not PM me and I will show you what I did. Not bad for a $64.00 mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
you can get turn 1 radiator scoops and fins, you also can get a front mount radiator kit, there are a few manufactures for this. Not sure about the soft rev eliminator. Where are you located?
Im stationed in Mississippi. Humid as hell.

Exhaust wrap/ceramic coating also helps a little. Front mount radiators are the most drastic and best way to keep it cool.
Am doing the exhaust wrap when i get back state side.
 

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Can only imagine Mississippi. Marines, Cherry Point NC, and the humidity sucks here too. What branch you in? Ive looked in to the soft rev mod and decided not to. My 03 lives on the street and didn't see the need for 500 more RPM at red line. Ive missed shifts and rev-d her all the way out before and the soft rev helps to prevent engine damage from that. What doing it will give you, full power to the rev limiter, with the extra RPM 9500+ it will put out more HP (makes dyno #s look better). I'm sure theirs more but that's all i can remember. If you ask me, its for a track bike not a street bike. Haven't had the chance to ride after doing the flapper and pair mod but that was pretty ez to do. The "how to" and what is does are on rc51.org under mods.
 

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I'm originally from Mississippi, and I've lived in the midwest for a while.
I can say the summers were just as hot and just as humid as in the south.
The difference being MS didn't have the brutal winters like the midwest.
Actually back in '89, the summer was hotter in the Detroit area than in my home town in MS.
It was 103 deg F one summer in MI and had the humidity from the great lakes.
The only advantage was the summers were shorter than the south.
Here in Florida, from May to November, it's in the 90s and the humidity is just as bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can only imagine Mississippi. Marines, Cherry Point NC, and the humidity sucks here too. What branch you in? Ive looked in to the soft rev mod and decided not to. My 03 lives on the street and didn't see the need for 500 more RPM at red line. Ive missed shifts and rev-d her all the way out before and the soft rev helps to prevent engine damage from that. What doing it will give you, full power to the rev limiter, with the extra RPM 9500+ it will put out more HP (makes dyno #s look better). I'm sure theirs more but that's all i can remember. If you ask me, its for a track bike not a street bike. Haven't had the chance to ride after doing the flapper and pair mod but that was pretty ez to do. The "how to" and what is does are on rc51.org under mods.
Grew up not to far from Cherry Point. home town is E City. I believe we had a det there back in 02. Preciate the heads up on the soft rev, yeah i dont plan on puttin her on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm originally from Mississippi, and I've lived in the midwest for a while.
I can say the summers were just as hot and just as humid as in the south.
The difference being MS didn't have the brutal winters like the midwest.
Actually back in '89, the summer was hotter in the Detroit area than in my home town in MS.
It was 103 deg F one summer in MI and had the humidity from the great lakes.
The only advantage was the summers were shorter than the south.
Here in Florida, from May to November, it's in the 90s and the humidity is just as bad.
I transfered from Jax FL Dec 09. Had a few issues with my gixx heatin up sittin in traffic but as soon as i hit the interstate i was good. Second time ive been stationed in MS. I plan on ridin everyday so id like to keep her cool. You know how 49 is in the afternoons!! haha. Might have to take the long way on 90!!!
 

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I have done flapper (gets rid of loss of power from 5000-6500rpm), soft limit and pair mods because they were easy. But the best overall improvement was a power commander, power delivery and all around engine behavior improved and changing drive from 16/40 to 15/41. This make the front end a little lighter but definitely make the bike feel more zippy if you will. Although if you under 190 I've heard just changing the rear sprocket to 42 is good enough. At 220 I needed that extra tooth!!!
 

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To rgv250f3 I also am about to go 1 down in th front and up two in the back what difference did that make in your chain length does any one know what length i will need if do this change?
 

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The soft rev limiter fix is a must-do, it's free horsepower. The flapper mod is a must-do because it so simple. Something that helps cool the RC is more air speed. Seriously, if you follow a car or trunk too closely, it reduces the air speed through the radiators and the bike runs much hotter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the input guys.. Looks like i have alot of work to do when i get back to the states!
 

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chain length

I had to do a little searching in the manual to find what the stock chain lengths are- Honda SP1 2000-2001 104 links
Honda SP2 2002-2006 106 links these are the stock lengths..

I would go with a 112 length just to be on the safe side for either application..(110L should be ok as well)

For anyone doing this for the first time- grind off the heads of your stock master link, remove the old chain. On the new chain on you have figured out the length to cut it, you will need to grind the rivet heads off before attempting to use the chain press tool. I would only use a permanent master link, clip type on sport bikes can be dangerous.. install the new front and rear sprockets reinstall the wheel, run your fresh chain though and make sure you have the adjusters approximately in the middle of there adjustment, if your running a 190-55 rear make sure you have clearence before you mark the chain, double, triple check you got everything set up correctly before you grind off the rivets and shorten the chain.. use a good quality master link press and make sure you rivit the master correctly and your good to go..I recommend the DID erv3 gold xring chain it is a kick ass chain and has very little stiction and lets the rear wheel spin real freely. Good luck..
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