Valve servicing...
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But you have cash to drive...?
I was concerned about this alot when I got my RC.. I had a Ducati that I let got 10K between adjustments and it sounded sooo bad.. From what i learned on here alot of guys are going 25k plus without and adjustment.. Start saving and listen you your bike.. You'll know when its time to park it til you have the money.. Or you can do it yourself..
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These bikes have pretty good metal in the valve train.
If you ride your bike reasonably, then of course you can slide on the valve checks a bit.
They recommend checking every 16K miles, and most of the time they don't need re-shimming.
So you can probably slide for a while while you're saving for a service.
I don't recommend going a huge amount of miles between checks.
Having valves with clearances too tight or too loose is not a good thing.
As a side note, I just picked up an '08 FZ1 and the valves only need checking every 26K miles.
Amazing how well built engines are these days.
If you ride your bike reasonably, then of course you can slide on the valve checks a bit.
They recommend checking every 16K miles, and most of the time they don't need re-shimming.
So you can probably slide for a while while you're saving for a service.
I don't recommend going a huge amount of miles between checks.
Having valves with clearances too tight or too loose is not a good thing.
As a side note, I just picked up an '08 FZ1 and the valves only need checking every 26K miles.
Amazing how well built engines are these days.
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17 Posts
I also am in the range of a valve adjustment!
So what signs and sounds should we be looking for when out for a cruise?
I've noticed a little bit of a power loss in the beast from 8-9.5k, but not sure if its in need of a custom map with the Yosh's? Or a valve adjustment? Powercommander website map might not be right for my bike, so might have to get the service manual out. And I ride it pretty hard all the time, even when off the track.
What you guys think?
So what signs and sounds should we be looking for when out for a cruise?
I've noticed a little bit of a power loss in the beast from 8-9.5k, but not sure if its in need of a custom map with the Yosh's? Or a valve adjustment? Powercommander website map might not be right for my bike, so might have to get the service manual out. And I ride it pretty hard all the time, even when off the track.
What you guys think?
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Had mine checked at 25K miles when I bought it. Only one shim was slightly out.
Had it checked again at 36K miles and no shims needed.
This time (at 47K miles) I'll be checking it since I've bought the shim kit, feeler gauges, and micrometer to do the job.
Had it checked again at 36K miles and no shims needed.
This time (at 47K miles) I'll be checking it since I've bought the shim kit, feeler gauges, and micrometer to do the job.
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6,495 Posts
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64 Posts
where do i learn how to do this at? and what are the specs and their respective tolerances? thanks
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6,495 Posts
Download the service manual from this site:
http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service
Then read the section on valve adjustment.
It's not difficult, but you will need to have the proper tools to accomplish it.
http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service
Then read the section on valve adjustment.
It's not difficult, but you will need to have the proper tools to accomplish it.
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1 Posts
Just wanted to chime in here because I just dealt with this. I ran my sp2 to about 18k before going to local shop to get quote for service.... they quoted $1200. just for the valves.... meh.
I decided to tear it down this winter to freshen it up, new chain, new sprockets, new radiator fans, new air filters, replace the jenky LED's on the undertail with Custom LED clusters and the valve clearances.
If you have a good metric ratchet set with a drill, some feeler gauges and a few torx bits and hex head bits, you can make pretty quick work of it. Also you'll need a torque wrench... I think the cam journals are tightened to 17 ftlb and the valve covers are something like 7 ftlb.
There is some guy out of europe that has the process on his website, there is a tutorial in motorcyclist garage that gives you the basic idea, and there are downloaded shop manuals for SP1 and SP2 floating around in PDF. Good idea to run your tank down to near empty. Getting gas out/ tank off was biggest hassle for me, but I cannot imagine doing the rear valves without the tank off.
I took pictures, stored bolts and bits from each area in separate little containers. Made sure to check and double check that I had everything top dead center for front and back, measured and remeasured and then when I pulled and replaced shims remeasured to verify I was in spec. .16mm for intake, .31mm for exhaust. I went to the loose side of spec with all my replacement shims because everything had tightened up on me. .13 intake and .25 (average) exhaust so I'm .18 and .33 at all 4 respective valves +.02 which is still in spec.
It took me a minute to build up the courage to do it... But now that it's done and the bike is running like a champ. There is some satisfaction in that.
I decided to tear it down this winter to freshen it up, new chain, new sprockets, new radiator fans, new air filters, replace the jenky LED's on the undertail with Custom LED clusters and the valve clearances.
If you have a good metric ratchet set with a drill, some feeler gauges and a few torx bits and hex head bits, you can make pretty quick work of it. Also you'll need a torque wrench... I think the cam journals are tightened to 17 ftlb and the valve covers are something like 7 ftlb.
There is some guy out of europe that has the process on his website, there is a tutorial in motorcyclist garage that gives you the basic idea, and there are downloaded shop manuals for SP1 and SP2 floating around in PDF. Good idea to run your tank down to near empty. Getting gas out/ tank off was biggest hassle for me, but I cannot imagine doing the rear valves without the tank off.
I took pictures, stored bolts and bits from each area in separate little containers. Made sure to check and double check that I had everything top dead center for front and back, measured and remeasured and then when I pulled and replaced shims remeasured to verify I was in spec. .16mm for intake, .31mm for exhaust. I went to the loose side of spec with all my replacement shims because everything had tightened up on me. .13 intake and .25 (average) exhaust so I'm .18 and .33 at all 4 respective valves +.02 which is still in spec.
It took me a minute to build up the courage to do it... But now that it's done and the bike is running like a champ. There is some satisfaction in that.
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