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New tires, new wheels, titanium front axle, fixed broken harness, and washed the pig. now just have to change coolant and oil, and I just might make that Bay Area ride!

View attachment 136250
Now we are talking, looks nice!!

Which caliber and bracket you are using at rear? Which Brembo model is it?
 

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Ladybird bracket, and caliper were purchased used. Maybe someone else can tell me which caliper that is, as I have no idea and will need new pads at some point...
 

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Got the oil and coolant changed, looks like the harness fix worked - no more blacked out dash, and blown fuses!

Thanks for the link Johnny34 (y)
 

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I finally repacked my exhaust with a kit I bought directly from M4. I had previously used FMF repacking that I bought from Cycle Gear. I drilled the rivets and pulled off the inlet caps and found a bunch of empty space where nearly a quarter of the material had burned away. Clearly I got what I paid for.

Anyway, the M4 kit came with pre measured amounts off fiberglass strand for each can. It also had stainless steel sleeves, like a wristband of steel wool, that are slid around the center core pipe that runs through the can. Insert the core and then hand feed the fiberglass strand into the can. The M4 tech told me they use a machine for this part but doing it by hand will work. Rivet the end caps in place and you're done.

The bike now has that lovely rumble/gurgle back that we all love :love::love:
 

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Fiberglass packing doesn't last very long , I've been using ceramic fiber. ceramicfiberonline.com
I looked at their FAQ and it says "We use a continuous roving packing material that won’t burn or blow out." I don't know if that means fiberglass strand, ceramic fiber, or unicorn mane. "Won't burn or blow out" is a challenge the RC is looking forward to.
 

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2004 Honda RC-51 Nicky Haden Edition.
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As we all know, the Hotbodies undertail has the weakest led lights on the market, I mean pure crap, so I updated mine.
These new LEDs are beyond bright in the running mode and when you apply the brakes, stand back. It took a little work, but well worth it in the end. Our bikes do not have a blinker/brake pressure switch so you will need to wire up some bullets for blinkers if you want blinkers. I ordered a licence plate frame with running, brake and blinkers. I honestly only wanted safer running and braking and with my backoff module, you can see me a mile away from behind.
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Started the bike for the first time since 2010. Few issues i need to work out, but its runnning and idling smooth.
 

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Finally disconnected and plugged the vacuum line to the flapper valve so now it is always in the open position. Eliminated the emission PAIR system which included the electrical connection, solenoid, multiple hoses and plugged the check valve covers., cleaned the chain, lubricated and adjusted the throttle to have 0 play now, drained and replaced the clutch fluid. With the PAIR system eliminated the popping on decelaration is certainly minimized which is an unavoidable ocurrence with full aftermarkt exhaust replacements. All and all it feels faster than before if you will.

Lastly went with red grips, replaced the winshield with a clear one which imo looks cleaner than the previous one and also installed the GoPro camera base in the bridge top area by the ignition key switch and now the videos are way better with the windshield covering the camera the engine sounds heavenly.


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While riding, I turned the motor into a diesel engine.

Delivered it to a buddies house (mechanic). He drained my oil which had gas in it.

Inspected the bike...ordered a fuel regulator and injectors. Got K&N filters. New plugs.
All else checked ok.

He will service my rear shock AND install Kyle Racing 30mmNix kit for me.

Sooo...this is what I am getting done to my rc lately post.



Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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While riding, I turned the motor into a diesel engine.

Delivered it to a buddies house (mechanic). He drained my oil which had gas in it.

Inspected the bike...ordered a fuel regulator and injectors. Got K&N filters. New plugs.
All else checked ok.

He will service my rear shock AND install Kyle Racing 30mmNix kit for me.

Sooo...this is what I am getting done to my rc lately post.



Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I thought DK had to install the Nix30’s since Ohlins never made a kit for the RC. Would imagine it involves some machining at the bottom of the fork. But if your guy knows what to do & has the tools go for it. BTW the k&n filters will lose power compared to stock according to dyno tests per Rogue51 website.
 

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I thought DK had to install the Nix30’s since Ohlins never made a kit for the RC. Would imagine it involves some machining at the bottom of the fork. But if your guy knows what to do & has the tools go for it. BTW the k&n filters will lose power compared to stock according to dyno tests per Rogue51 website.
True. There are no instructions with this kit. DK is ready for my forks to be shipped if my buddy unable to do it.

I read that about the K&Ns.... I am taking a chance and hope for a good strong running motor out of this thing.

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Have ya done a dyno run with the stock filters? Pair valves removed? Always good to have a before & after comparison.
No I have not dyno'd. I do have the pair valves blocked.

Maybe when I get it back I will dyno it with a tune somwhere locally here.

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2004 Honda RC-51 Nicky Haden Edition.
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True. There are no instructions with this kit. DK is ready for my forks to be shipped if my buddy unable to do it.

I read that about the K&Ns.... I am taking a chance and hope for a good strong running motor out of this thing.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Did not notice any power loss with my K&Ns. I also run a PC5. The bike pulls hard and sounds badass. We mortal Men will never use what's on tap with the RC-51.
 
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