Why change? If its cost then I can understand but you will not notice any difference in power or feel by switching to a different brand.
Repsol is junk.. Stick with the Motul or go with Elf, Motorex, Golden Spectro, or Castrol if you want to keep the inside of your motor clean and well protected. I've seen more than 1 motor that was trashed inside after running repsol. Also talked to several engine builders that feel the same way about repsol. If you change your oil often, don't waste your money on full synthetic, go with a blend. If your lazy and only change it every 3,000+ miles or once a year, stick with the full synthetic. Just my .2
I run Golden Spectro blend and change it every 2,500 street miles or after each track session.What blend can you recommend? here in manila, everyone is mostly straight up with their oils. 100% synth mostly. and they change their oils here every 2500-3000kms.
I know what you guys mean about it being very expensive, coz it is!
I'll precede this by saying "don't laugh" ...
I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 heavy-duty diesel motor oil.
I race my TLR with this all last season, and am using it in my RC51 this season.
It's a VERY good oil, extremely well engineered, and touted by racers, drag racers, and mechanics. And best of all... it inexpensive. A 9.5L jug cost me maybe US$35~40.
Take a look through the forums at TLZone.net and search for "Rotella" and you'll see all the good feedback.
Ehhhhh yes and no.Yeah if you change your oil every 2500 Km (1500 Miles), then you might as well stay with regular oil.
You just blowing cash by using synthetic with that sort of an interval, unless you're racing and then I can see it.
Great infoEhhhhh yes and no.
(The reason I say no): The wear properties of a GOOD synthetic will far, FAR exceed any regular (dyno) oil. In an engine with these types of tolerances I simply would use nothing less than a good synthetic no matter how often he changes the oil. Even the wear properties of the best dyno oil brand new are nothing compared to a good synthetic.
(The reason I say yes): Depending on the makeup of the oil, he really is changing it too frequently. Although he's keeping the oil looking good and clean, he's not giving the oil a chance to wear and do it's job properly. Most of your oils on the market have a lifespan where they take some time to reach their full cleaning potential. When an oil is looking dirty, it normally means it's just doing it's job and it may not be time to change it just yet. Oil is not as cut and dry of a subject as some people think, www.bobistheoilguy.com is a fantastic tool for research, these guys take their oils very seriously and they still have their own opinions on what's best or what they like. If you're ever bored, check it out sometime.
Personally, I say if you like the Motul oil, I wouldn't give up on it. I'd ride down, buy a case or two at a time and just keep a little stock of it. Heck it'll probably cost you less in fuel and time from when you used to ride and buy it in low amounts.
On the note of Rotella, I love the stuff, I won't use it in anything that's too tight of tolerances but I always use it in my VW engines (I have about 4 different engines I switch around depending on the car and what I'm doing with it). But it's all I use in them, keeps everything very clean, the bearings seem to like it and the flat lifters love it.
My own high performance stuff I like to use Royal Purple. For just high performance street use I'll use the normal weight oils, for my racing applications I will use their racing blend and change the oil every or every other weekend of racing as their racing oil I use doesn't have the properties the hold water, so it needs to be flushed out frequently (the wear properties are amazing though, the bearings always turn out perfect). But their standard weight oil DO have the ability to retain water like they should meaning you can go longer intervals in between changes (like normal).