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The PAIR block-off plates and flapper actuator mount hole block-off plate can be had at either Kyle Racing or TPO Parts.

For the flapper actuator block-off plate, don't toss your flapper actuator as the spring steel plate is used on the block-off plate.
You'll need to grind the rivets off and bolt onto the block-off plate.
 

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When I did my flapper mod I just removed the hose from the flying saucer looking part (yeah a pretty technical term there) and sealed it with a screw, but I did NOT close off the hole on the Flying saucer part that I removed it from, it is just an open male conector hole now. Is this correct?
Seemed to have a good linear power band when I dynotuned with just a slight dip around 5k rpm's.
 

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Super Moderator
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When I did my flapper mod I just removed the hose from the flying saucer looking part (yeah a pretty technical term there) and sealed it with a screw, but I did NOT close off the hole on the Flying saucer part that I removed it from, it is just an open male conector hole now. Is this correct?
Seemed to have a good linear power band when I dynotuned with just a slight dip around 5k rpm's.
The disc shaped part is the flapper actuator. Disconnecting and plugging the hose prevents the vacuum from reaching the actuator.
Simply unplugging the flapper solenoid connector mounted on the radiator would have accomplished the same thing.

The solenoid is activated by the ECU and allows low pressure from the vacuum tank to reach the actuator.
The low pressure in the vacuum tank is supplied by a hose from the front throttle body.

If you plug the hose from the front throttle body, you can then remove all the hardware and hoses, if you wish.
 
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