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Discussion Starter #1
Hey silly ?'s here. I ve been out of the bike world for a few years and would love some input on a few things.

There are tons of front and rear bike stands out there. Which ones are worth the purchase?

And ive tried a few wash and wax products but havent been happy with any of them. Any suggestions here?

Other than that im not looking forward to putting my frame sliders on this week. I hate to cut my fairings. Measure measure measure lol before i cut lol.
 

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For a quicky polish/cleaner, I use Plexus.
For small grease spots it's good, and is great on plastic and paint.
It's not super persistent, so you may need to reapply, but it's so easy and quick, it's just only takes a few seconds.

Motorex's clean and polish is pretty good, but it uses a foaming action and you have to be careful to keep it off tires and brake rotors.

For small parts or degreasing jobs, I've found Motorex chain cleaner is excelent.
It's meant for chains, but it vaporizes to quickly. For chains you need a persistent cleaner that will stay applied long enough to scrub the chain. And this doesn't.
But for degreasing parts or bodywork, it's great.
I've not yet found any plastic or paint that it harms (be sure to test though).
I used cans of it during my bike rebuild.
 

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For front stands, Woodcraft is the best IMO....you can't go wrong with their rear stand either. Pitbull's rear is a serious rear stand and should last a few lifetimes.

BTW, go read the write-up on www.rc51.org regarding cutting the fairings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
cool thanks guys. Ill check out all those cleaners .

I ll have to look at that other stand. ive seen the pit bull ones they look really well built.

Yeah ill definitely check out that write thanks a ton.
 

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I got a set of black widow stands front & rear for $130 shipped and they've been great. Pitbull is just to expensive a piece for the purpose it serves.

Plus I have a buddy that has one if I ever want to do the forks which I probably should.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nj racer i tried that link for the forum on cutting the fairings and i cant get in im not a member. Think you could copy and paste it here or email it to me?

Yeah the black widow ones are the ones i was looking at can get the set front and rear as a package deal for about the same as one pitbull.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got a set of black widow stands front & rear for $130 shipped and they've been great. Pitbull is just to expensive a piece for the purpose it serves.

Plus I have a buddy that has one if I ever want to do the forks which I probably should.
I got to looking at the black widow stands and they looked like it would be cutting it close on width . they say it will fit up to 14" and my spools are right at 14" at the smallest distance. might look into the Woodcraft or pitbull even though they are more exspensive
 

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I don't know what kind of spools you have but mine fit right in the center perfectly. Whatever you do decide to get I'm sure will work fine.
 

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nj racer i tried that link for the forum on cutting the fairings and i cant get in im not a member. Think you could copy and paste it here or email it to me?
BTW, you do not have to be a member to view the mod page on rc51.org


So the project begins--with my faithful companion looking at me and thinking, "You better not mess up...Hole Saws aren't forgiving (Fig. 1)!" To start off with you'll need:
- Frame Sliders
- A small drill bit (for the pilot holes)
- A 2" Hole Saw
- A can of "Play Doh" (just trust me on this one)
- (2) 17mm sockets with extentions
- Masking tape
- Dremel Tool with sanding drum (optional)
- Black Sharpie Marker
- Torque Wrench

One last look at the panels before we get started (Fig. 2). Do I really want to cut holes in these...YEAH!

Start by removing the side panels off your bike.



Next, remove the nut from your "through bolt" with a 17mm socket (Fig. 3). It's on pretty tight so you'll have to put a little effort into it. Once the nut is off, place it to the side (you'll be using it later.) You won't need the washer.

Now tap on the bolt to push it out the other side. Then grab the bolt (Fig. 4) and pull it out.

Now tap on the bolt to push it out the other side. Then grab the bolt (Fig. 4) and pull it out.



Replace the stock bolt with the bolt that came with your Frame Sliders (Fig. 5). Do not put the left slider on the bolt yet. Now push the bolt in just far enough so that it would touch the inside of your side panel if you put it on.

Next, place some Play Doh on the inside of the left panel--approximately where you think the Framer Slider is going to poke through (Fig. 6).

Place the left panel back on the bike and then remove it. The bolt will make an impression in the Play Doe right where you need to drill (Fig. 7).

Now use your small drill bit and drill a pilot hole right through the center of your bolt impression (Fig. 8). It helps to place a block of wood under the side panel to drill in to.



Now flip it over, tape it off, and get ready to make your cut using the pilot hole you just drilled (Fig. 9)
Using your 2" hole saw, begin drilling through the panel. You must drill the hole from the outside in order to get a smooth entry into the plastic (and not push the decal stickers from the backside)


DO NOT drill the hole at a high rpm! It will create heat and melt the plastic! Nice and steady...firm pressure. Don't forget the wood block under the body panel. Ahh, finally! Hope the whole is in the right spot (Fig. 10).



Use your Dremel to 'debur' the edge of the hole. Be gentle and take your time. You want the rotation of the sanding barrel to be 'pushing' downward into the hole in relation to the edge you are sanding for the same reason you drilled from the outside (Fig. 11).
You can also use a black Sharpie marker to finish the inside edge of the hole. It covers all the little blemishes


n order to get rid of the foam rubber, that's sticking out in the whole, you'll need to pull out little bits of it. Cutting it didn't work well so I just pinched out small pieces with my fingers (Fig. 12).



Now remove the bolt from Fig. 5, place the longer Frame slider on it, followed by the small spacer that was provided, and then re-install the bolt (Fig. 14). The other side of the bolt should be left sticking out on the right side

Now repeat the Play Doe and drilling process for the right panel. Then install the right Frame Slider using the factory nut (Fig. 15). Torque the nut to 47 ft. lbs. You'll need to use the (2) 17mm sockets to hold the bolt in place and torque the nut down
Finally, put the panels back on and admire your handywork (Fig. 16)


Guide by Troy Gwin.
Adapted from instructions on the Intuitive website:
http://www.inturace.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ah thanks man . I apprecate that. I figured that out a few hours before i got your reply lol. The project went great. sliders look good and wrapping the exhaist in black exhaust wrap and changing the polished TB slipons to flat black looks feeking sweet.

Im so thinking about painting the entire bike Flat black and then have the RC51 decal design done in gloss with red lettering and yellow stripes in the lettering. I think it will look bad ass.

Thanks again .

Oh and BTW the black widow stands work really well. the only thing i have noticed is that I wish the front stand lifted the bike up a little higher but that was an easy fix just welded some extensions to the lift arms got me an extra 4 inches of lift. Plus i build that work platform ( the one that is in here somewhere ) and coated it in floor sealant. Now theres just a few specialized tools I need to get and im Hooked up.
 

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I like my Lockhart Phillips stands, inexpensive, and I like how they go under the swingarm.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I bought the Black widow ones. and other then I modified my front stand to lift higher then it origianally did i love them. can get both front and rear for same price as one pitbull.
 
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